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Food Finds: UGLI fruit

9th February 2010

Food Finds: UGLI fruit

by Rachel

Food Finds is a semi-regular feature in which I channel my inner Andrew Zimmern to experiment and try exotic and new foods — sans creepy crawly bugs and bull’s testicles, of course.  Have an idea for my next food find?  Post your suggestions in the comments below!

It is a testament to the marvels of modern technology that I am able to savor an UGLI fruit while gazing out my window at steadily falling snow in my corner of the American Midwest.  What exactly is an UGLI fruit, you ask?  It’s the trademark name under which Cabel Hall Citrus Ltd. markets it brand of tangelos from Jamaica (pronounced there as “hoo-glee”).  The fruit was found in the 1920s growing wild on the island nation, and is believed to be a hybrid of grapefruit, Seville oranges and tangerines.  It’s available from December through April, and sometimes in the fall.   The company’s slogan for the fruit is, ““The Affliction is only Skin Deep so the Beauty is in the Eating,” so while a name makeover might make it more palatable to consumers, it’s a perfect food find for this blog.

As its name suggests, the UGLI fruit is indeed a rather unattractive fruit — it’s slightly larger than a grapefruit with misshapen, dimpled wrinkly green-yellow skin.  I bought mine at my local grocer for 99 cents, a price comparable to a grapefruit of similar size, and not knowing anything about the UGLI fruit, selected one with a bright Kermit-green colored rind.  The skin is easier to peel than a grapefruit or orange and sheds to reveal an orangey-yellow, pulpy, virtually seed-free citrus inside.  I later read that the green surface blemishes turn orange when the fruit is at its peak ripeness, so mine was perhaps a bit under-ripe for the eating (they can be stored for up to two weeks in the fridge). The UGLI fruit is much juicier than an orange and even a grapefruit, so make sure you aren’t wearing white, like I was.  Better yet, wear a bib.  For those of you raised with manners, Cabel Hall recommends cutting the fruit in half, loosening the segments and eating with a spoon.

I found the taste to be somewhat of a weak orange with a slight sour zest of lemony citrus.  In reading other accounts of people who actually waited until their fruits were ripe, the taste at its peak is comparable to a juicy naval orange.  I’ll probably stick to oranges and grapefruits for stand-alone fruits, but I think the UGLI fruit would be fantastic in a fruit salad or smoothie.  Check out these other creative UGLI food and drink recipes:

Are you an UGLI fan?  Have a recipe to share?  Post your comments below!

“The Affliction is only Skin Deep so the Beauty is in the Eating “™

posted in Food Finds, Food History, Rachel, Recipes | 3 Comments

28th December 2009

Open Post: What are you reading?

by Rachel

When I was younger, our parents would have us fill out our Santa wish lists weeks before Christmas.  As the sole bookworm in the family, I, of course, always requested a long list of books — Oliver Twist in the third-grade, Shakespeare at the age of 9 and later, in my teen years, Stephen King.  My list must have not made it to the North Pole because instead I got things like a makeup brush kit or a t-shirt screenprinted with a picture of a black labrador.  One of the joys of marrying a man who used to do all his Christmas shopping at Walgreens on Christmas Eve is that now all I do is fill out my Amazon wishlist and know that most, if not all, will be wrapped and waiting under the tree.  I’ve already devoured the two fiction books I received — Stephen King’s new book, Under the Dome and The Strain, coauthored by Chuck Hogan and Guillermo del Toro — and am now ready to dig into my non-fiction gifts.  In no particular order…

So, what’s on your reading list?  Any recommendations for the rest of us?

posted in Book Reviews, Class & Poverty, Eating Disorders, Fat History, Feminist Topics, Food History, Race Issues, Rachel, Recovery | 30 Comments

16th December 2009

Latkes, blintzes and doughnuts! Ahh, the foods of Chanukah

by Rachel

Happy Chanukah to my Jewish readers! The eight-day Jewish festival of lights began at sundown Dec. 11 and continues through Saturday. I was raised Christian and now identify as Buddhist, so my knowledge of Chanukah and its origins is rudimentary at best. But the internet is a wonderful, wonderful tool and there are lots of websites devoted to sharing the holiday’s history and time-honored traditions.

As in most religious and secular holidays, food plays a large role in Chanukah traditions.   Many traditional Chanukah foods are cooked in oil, in remembrance of the oil that kept the menorah alight.  Traditional favorites in the U.S. are latkes, a potato fritter that may have developed in Eastern Europe.  In Israel, the favorite Chanukah food is sufhaniya, a kind of jelly doughnut cooked in oil.  A small spinning top, the dreidle, is used to play a gambling game using nuts, raisins, sweets or chocolate money (gelt).  The four-sided top carries the initials of the Hebrew phrase “a great miracle happened there.”  Dairy products, especially cheese, are another Chanukah tradition.  This is done in memory of the Jewish heroine Judith, who according to legend saved her village of Bethulia from Syrian attackers.  With her main, Judith entered the enemy camp and fed Holofernes, the Syrian leader, salty cheese and fine wine until he fell into a drunken stupor.  The clever Judith then seized his sword and cut off his head, which she brought back to her village in basket.  The next morning, Syrian troops saw their leader’s head mounted on the city walls and fled in terror.

A typical Chanukah party menu might include: gelfilte fish, or poached fish patties; potato pancakes, fried, of course, in lots of oil; sweet cream cheese rugelach, strawberry-jam-filled doughnut covered in powdered sugar; fried apple fritters; cheese-filled doughnuts fried in oil and dipped in honey; and cheese blintzes.  Yum!   You don’t have to be Jewish to enjoy these delish treats.  Check out some of the creative recipes I found online:

Share your own Chanukah recipes or traditions in the comments below.

posted in Food Culture, Food History, Rachel, Recipes | 26 Comments

19th November 2009

Taking the diet out of “diet foods”

by Rachel

I’m sitting at my favorite local indie coffeehouse staring at a large plate of cottage cheese and fresh fruit atop a bed of leafy greens paired with a side of steaming spiced apples and wishing I had my camera because the presentation is as much artistic as it is yummy.  That its menu is vegetarian-friendly is one of the reasons why I love this coffeehouse so much, but despite its array of veggie offerings, I sometimes find myself craving the delicious synergy of pineapple and large curd cottage cheese.

Cottage cheese has gotten a bum rap in the past few decades.  For too many, its pebblelike curds suspended in a milky mixture conjures up images of diet food or maybe food for the old and senile.  There’s even a cottage cheese fad diet that guarantees weight loss if you only eat it straight for one week.   I always find the association of cottage cheese as diet food a bit amusing considering that during my eating disorder days, I decided it way too high-cal to eat and labeled it a “bad” food.  Salad, another diet food dismissal and a personal favorite, also seems to get no respect.

As I sit here alternating between typing and downing forkfuls of cheese curds, I wonder about other foods considered to be worthy of consumption only when in the pursuit of weight loss.  Are there any “diet foods” that you like and have reclaimed as part of your non-diet diet?

posted in Food History, Health, Nutrition & Fitness, Rachel | 47 Comments

7th August 2009

Name your favorite food flicks

by Rachel

NPR’s Talk of the Nation yesterday did a brief segment on food flicks, that is, films that are centered on food or in which food plays an important role to the plot.  Listen to an archive here.   The segment was inspired by the opening this weekend of Julie and Julia, starring Meryl Streep as the indomitable Julia Child and Amy Adams as Julie Powell, a woman who aspires to cook all 524 recipes from Child’s autobiography and blog about it. So, consider this an open thread to discuss your own favorite cinematic food moments and foodie flicks. To help get you started, check out this list compiled by Rebecca Epstein of the food and culture journal Gastronomica.

posted in Arts and Music, Food Culture, Food History | 38 Comments

30th June 2009

Food Finds: Quince

by Rachel

Before I went vegetarian nearly seven years ago, vegetables for me basically came in a handful of varieties: green beans, potatoes, corn, carrots and the lettuce and tomato atop a burger.  Newly-veg enthusiasm and sheer culinary boredom compelled me to expand my agricultural repertoire and I soon began to discover new-to-me fruits and vegetables I love like pink lady apples, plantains, sweet potatoes, dandelion greens and kale, parsnips and okra.  There were a few I still don’t like (eggplant, yuck) but now whenever I see a new fruit or vegetable at the grocery story or farmer’s market, I make it a point to try it.

Quince

My latest food find is quince, a small mottled-yellow, lumpy fruit about the size of a large apple.  Quince trees, which produce beautiful large pink flowers, thrive in almost every soil, even on chalk.  It’s thought that the forbidden fruit eaten by Adam and Eve was not an apple, but in fact, a quince.  The fruit was cultivated long before apples in Mesopotamia and was carried by the Greeks into the Eastern Mediterranean.    Charlemagne helped bring it to France about 812 AD and it soon began being traded on the Silk Road.  Quince was quite popular in colonial New England and by 1720 was thriving in Virginia.  The fruit fell from popularity in the states and today is most popular in the Middle East, the Mediterranean and in some Latin American countries, where it’s also used for medicinal purposes and believed to be an aphrodisiac.    The fact that I found quince, which cost only slightly more than a large apple, at my grocer’s in the middle of summer is odd, considering that it is a seasonable cold-weather fruit usually cultivated between early fall and January.  But thanks to recently passed origin-of-food labeling laws, I could see that my quince was grown in Chile.

I had no idea how to prepare quince and with my customary disregard for directions, sliced it and ate it raw.  BIG mistake.  The texture of quince is kind of a mix between an apple and a firm, unripe pear, but the taste is tart and sour and leaves your mouth very dry.  It was only after I googled quince that I discovered that it is most usually eaten cooked, usually in fruit sauces and jams and jellies or it can be peeled, then roasted, baked or stewed.  The tannins that cause the acidic taste in quince supposedly mellow when cooked to produce a fragrant, delicate taste and also turns the fruit a pinkish red color.

I haven’t written quince off yet.  I plan to get a few more and try out some of the simpler recipes I’ve linked to below after the jump.  Has anyone tried a quince recipe or have one to share?   What are some other food finds you’ve discovered?

Read the rest of this entry »

posted in Food Culture, Food Finds, Food History, Rachel, Recipes | 25 Comments

17th June 2009

Food History Blogging: Breakfasts of Champions

by Rachel

For much of my adult life, I’ve rarely eaten breakfast.  As a kid, I’d eat whatever generic sugary cereal that promised the best toy or we’d be sent out the door to school armed with a Pop Tart or snack cake.  I’ve never been a morning person either, but most of my aversion to breakfast stems more so from the fact that even when I ate meat I never really liked breakfast foods, or, at least, popular American breakfast foods.  Bacon?  Ick.  Sausage?  Links maybe, but definitely not patties.  Fried eggs?  Gross.  Doughnuts or strudel?  Too saccharine.  I was diagnosed with hypothyroidism in my early 20s and prescribed Synthroid, which must be taken on an empty stomach.  I got into the habit of taking it in the mornings, thus giving me a convenient excuse to skip breakfast altogether.

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day or so dietitians keep telling us.  And studies showing that kids and adults who eat breakfast perform better in school and are more productive at work certainly back it up.  My doctor recently recommended that I try to increase the number of hours I sleep and to start eating breakfast, so I’ve been making a concerted effort in both areas.  My dilemma, however, is not whether I should eat breakfast, but rather what to eat for breakfast.  We’re so culturally staid in that there are certain foods that are appropriate for certain meals and foods that are not appropriate at certain meals.  Brunch for lunch was always popular in my grade school even though it consisted of limp French toast drowning beneath watery syrup and accompanied by anemic sausage links just because the breakfast-lunch inversion was so novel a concept to us.  Bacon and eggs, French toast, waffles and pancakes, toast and cereals are all considered traditional American breakfast foods, but it’s interesting to note that they haven’t always been the breakfasts of champions.  Here’s a quick rundown of American breakfast foods through the ages:

Pioneer Breakfast: Like their Native American counterparts, pioneers relied on cornmeal as a breakfast staple.  Cornpone (pan-fried in oil), hoecakes (small pancakes cooked on a garden hoe), Johnnycakes (flattened and griddle-fried) and Ashcakes (wrapped in cabbage leaves and cooked in campfire ashes) were popular amongst the poor and well-to-do.  George Washington’s step-granddaughter recorded his breakfast habits, for instance, as: “‘[H]e ate three small mush cakes (Indian meal) swimming in butter and honey, and drank three cups of tea without cream.” Check out Paula Deen’s hoecakes recipe or this recipe for Johnny cakes.

Victorian Breakfast: Victorian breakfast menus were more extensive owing to the rise of the middle-class and middle-class mothers who had more leisure time and disposable income to improve the quality and range of food options.  Middle-class families expanded breakfast to include at least one hot dish or meat and/or eggs, along with fish, breads, porridge and fruit.  Menus could be quite extensive and a formal Victorian breakfast might include Eggs Benedict, smoked Haddock, English muffins, fruit, toast and cake or crepes.  Folgers introduced its pre-roasted and ground coffees in the 1860s, and coffee quickly became a breakfast staple.  Check out these recipes offered by Victorian bed-and-breakfasts and inns across the nation.

Breakfast Cereals: Dr. John Harvey Kellogg developed and patented America’s first flaked cereal he called Granose Flakes in 1894.  He and brother Will Keith Kellogg joined him in creating the first corn flakes cereal three years later.  After a bitter feud left them divided, Will Keith started his own plant in 1906 that would come to be known as the modern day Kellogg Company.  He introduced Rice Krispies in 1929.  Inspired and rebuffed by J.H. Kellogg, an inventor by the name of C. W. Post went on to produce his own cereal he called Grape Nuts.  By 1900, he had become a multi-millionaire.  Read more about the Kellogg brothers here.

Oatmeal: Some 80 percent of Americans are estimated to have oatmeal in their cupboards today, but it wasn’t always so popular.  Although oats are one of the earliest cereals to be cultivated by man, Americans did not begin growing them in large quantities until the nineteenth century.  And until the twentieth century, oatmeal proved quite arduous to prepare, requiring as long as 24 hours soaking time.  Quaker Oats was registered as a cereal trademark in 1877.  “Quick oats” were introduced in 1922 and “Instant” oatmeal in 1966.  “Flavored” oatmeals arrived in the 1970s.  Today’s rolled, instant and quick oats are far different from the steel cut oatmeal prepared in earlier centuries and as some would say, less tasty and healthy.  Check out a recipe for steel cut oats here.

Doughnuts: Doughnuts date back to prehistoric reuins in the American Southwest, but they’re primarily credited to the Dutch who would fry sweet dough balls in pork fat.  Dutch pilgrims brought these olykoeks to America where they were dubbed “dough-nuts” because they were usually prepared with prunes, apples or nuts in the middle (these fillings were added mostly because it was so difficult to fully cook the centers of the doughballs).  Legend has it that a popular sea captain disliked the nuts his wife prepared in his doughnuts and poked them out.  Acting on his orders, the ship’s captain removed all subsequent doughnut centers with a round tin cutout, thus giving rise to the doughnut hole we all know today.  Returning WWI G.I.s brought back with them a craze for doughnuts after having been served them by the grateful French and doughnuts began to be mass-produced by the 1920s.  They remained primarily a snack food in the U.S. however, until the invention of the doughnut machine in the 1930s.  Krispy Kreme and Dunkin’ Doughnuts arrived in the 1940s and 1950s and made popular the pairing of coffee and doughnuts.  The whole cops and doughnut shops lore exists today because these shops were often the only places open all night.  In the days before Red Bull, police officers would get their caffeine fix there so as to get them over the 4 – 7 a.m. hump.  The doughnut’s holiness was challenged by the growing popularity of the bagel in the 1970s and 1980s; by 1999 bagels were reported by the New York Times to have overtook the doughnut in popularity. However both remain popular today with even Dunkin’ Doughnuts selling bagels.  Check out these recipes for doughnuts and bagels.

I’m trying to let go of my breakfast foods propriety and instead just make things that I like and that will give my brain a much-needed boost.  Some of my breakfast favorites are: strawberries, blueberries and granola in yogurt; Morningstar Farms Veggie Sausage Links; peanut butter toast and a banana; pineapple chunks and cottage cheese; a veggie BLT made with Morningstar Farms Bacon Strips; the occasional scrambled eggs on toast; and, of course, fresh fruit.  How about you?  Are you a breakfast person or no?  If so, what are some of your favorite breakfast foods?

posted in Food History, Health, Nutrition & Fitness, Vegetarianism | 45 Comments

26th May 2009

Food History Blogging: John Harvey Kellogg

by Rachel

Like many other veggies, I’m sure, I’m often asked why I’m vegetarian (more on the ubiquity of this question in a post to come) and then, in amazement, if I ever miss the taste of meat.  I come from a family of hearty steak-and-potato meat-eaters, the kind for whom meat IS the meal.  My grandpa lost all his teeth in middle-age to some kind of disease but continued to gum on steak and chicken well into his golden years.  Even today when I pass by KFC or Lee’s Chicken crematoriums, I can’t help but be reminded of Sunday dinners after church with my grandparents and a bucket of the colonel’s finest.  A love of a good steak dinner was one of the few things beyond DNA that my mother and I have ever shared.  It is no coincidence that the Atkin’s diet was the first diet I ever saw “success” with.

The fact that supermarket freezer shelves are lined with woefully inadequate meat substitutes speaks to the wide flavor appeal of meat.  While I admit to missing the taste of meat, chiefly tuna fish, crab legs and my grandma’s skillet-fried chicken, my ethics always trumps my taste buds.  I’ve heard of veggies doing amazing things with tofu and seiten, but as it so happens, both Brandon and I also happen to be tragically incompetent in the kitchen with no inclination in learning the complex mysteries of bean curd.  Fortunately for us, there’s Morningstar Farms, a Kellogg-owned brand of faux meat substitutes ranging from fake sausage, veggie burgers and hot dogs and stringy chicken.

Most of us know Kelloggs for its line of sugary-sweet cereals immortalized by iconic spokescartoons Snap, Crackle and Pop, but few of us know about one-half of Kellogg’s namesake, Dr. John Harvey Kellogg, a committed vegetarian and influential American physician and nutritionist in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.  In the course of writing the Big Paper, I discovered that nearly two decades before the birth of the modern day Kellogg Co., J. H. Kellogg was already experimenting with meat-free substitutes.  The cynic in me thought, “Heh, wouldn’t it be ironic if the Kellogg Co. owned some kind of meat brand today,” but instead, I found it to be the owner of the largest vegetarian food producer in the United States (and to produce no apparent meat products).  For this, Kellogg is the first to be profiled in a new semi-regular series I’m oh, so creatively calling “Food History Blogging.“  Read the rest of this entry »

posted in Food History, Vegetarianism | 19 Comments

9th April 2009

Body-size diversity in an unlikely place

by Rachel

The coming weeks will be especially busy for me. Before I can graduate this June, I have to complete a 40-page paper and an independent study — all while somehow squeezing in a 40-hour work week and battling a growing compulsion to troll nurseries and greenhouses. My paper is, of course, on an issue related to feminist food culture, so I’ve been relying on cookbooks as sources of primary evidence. I especially love cookbooks of the 1950s for the new appliances that emerged in this period and the fun retro clip art illustrations — not to mention, the odd and sometimes scary recipe concoctions. Illustrations in cookbooks really didn’t emerge until the 1930s or so and continued through the late 1950s, when photography emerged as the more vibrant and cost-effective medium. Women in 1950s-era retro illustrations are typically cast from the same mold: They’re all perfectly-coifed and impossibly thin, with perky breasts pointed skyward and a cinched waist belted above a flowing skirt (women stopped wearing corsets by the 1920s, but the girdle, the slightly less confining cousin of the corset, made its sculpted megacurves debut in the 1950s).

I was browsing through one my latest finds last night — “Good Housekeeping’s Book of Vegetables” published in 1958 — and stumbled upon some surprising cookbook clip art finds. First, here’s a couple typical 1950s-era retro illustrations as seen in this cookbook.

retro housewife clipart

retro housewife cookbook clipart

Notice that the waist size of each woman is about the same width as her neck. If they were real women, they’d have a waist size of about 15-inches (about the circumference of a large grapefruit) with a bust twice that. All of which makes the next set of images found in the same cookbook so very interesting.

indian retro clipart

Fat baby

retro clip art fat girl

Fat girl

retro clipart fat housewife

Fat woman

An illustrator by the name of C. C. Cooper (not to be confused with the artist Colin Campbell Cooper who died in 1937) created the drawings in this particular cookbook.  Unfortunately I can’t find any information on him or her as sadly seems to be the case with other cookbook artist unknowns.  These images and more will be added to the retro  graphics gallery I’m designing as part of the site redesign.  Anyone have any other examples of fat characters in authentic retro clip art?

posted in Food Culture, Food History, Pop Culture | 13 Comments

25th March 2009

“Recipe for Cooking a Husband”

by Rachel

I found this tidbit of advice in a 1961 community cookbook I picked up recently and no, despite the tongue-in-cheek title, it’s not a la cannibal. Let’s see how many gendered stereotypes we can detect in this one brief snippet.

A good many husbands are spoiled by mismanagement in cooking and so are not tender and good. Some women keep them too constantly in hot water; others freeze them; others keep them in a stew; others roast them; and still others keep them constantly in a pickle. It cannot be supposed that any husband will be good and tender managed in this way; but they are really delicious when properly treated. In selecting your husband you should not be guided by silvery appearance as in buying mackerel; nor by golden tint as if buying salmon. Be sure and select him for yourself, as tastes differe. Do not go to the market for him, as those brought to the door are always better. It is far better to have none than not to learn to cook them properly. It does not make so much difference what you cook him in as how you cook him. See that the linen in which he is wrapped is always white and nicely mended, with the required number of strings and buttons. Do not keep him in the kettle by force, as he will stay there by himself if proper care is taken. Should he sputter or fizz, do not be anxious, some husbands do this. Add a little sugar in the form confectioners call “kisses”, but no vinegar or pepper on any account. A little spice improves, but it must be used with good judgment. Do not try him with anything sharp to see if he is becoming tender. Stir him gently. If thus treated, you will find him very digestible, agreeing nicely with you — and he will keep as long as you desire.

This cookbook actually contains some other very useful tips and advice. Did you know, for instance, that:

  • To remove burned food from oven, place small cloth saturated with ammonia in over overnight.
  • Bread crumbs added to scrambled eggs will improve the flavor and make larger helpings possible.
  • A tablespoon of vinegar added to water when poaching eggs will hep set the whites so they will not spread.
  • When cooking eggs, it helps prevent cracking if you wet the shells in cold water before placing them in boiling water.
  • If a cracked dish is boiled for 45 minutes in sweet milk, the crack will be so welded together that it will hardly be visible, and will be so strong it will withstand the same usage as before.
  • Dip your bananas (or apples) in lemon juice after they are peeled. They will not turn dark and the faint flavor of lemon really adds quite a bit.
  • A leaf of lettuce dropped into the pot absorbs the grease from the top of the soup.
  • Add a little vinegar to the water when an egg crack during boiling. It will help seal the egg.

posted in Feminist Topics, Food History | 9 Comments

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