Is there a greater body acceptance horizon looming on the fashion runway?

9th September 2009

Is there a greater body acceptance horizon looming on the fashion runway?

posted in Anorexia, Body-Affirming, Fashion, Fat Acceptance, Fat Bias, Recovery |

Plus-size model Crystal Renn appeared on Good Morning America yesterday to talk about her new book, Hungry. Renn, who is America’s highest paid plus-size model, once epitomized the size-zero super-wraith model: 98 pounds and set to starve herself even thinner. Now back to a healthy size 12, she’s on a mission to promote self-acceptance – and, ironically, is more sought-after than ever.

“My message is that I want people to know that they can be themselves, that they can be individual, and that they don’t have to conform to be accepted and to succeed. I found that when I accepted myself and became an individual and who I am really, that my life and everything about me finally flourished and my career took off.“

In an interview Sunday with The Guardian, Renn said that while “crazy town still loves to gawp at the ultra-slim” there is a growing appetite in the fashion world for “the natural shapes a woman’s body takes when it’s not being deprived of food.” Inga Eiriksdottir, another plus-size fashion model, agrees. She, too, was pressured into losing more and more weight off her natural UK size 8 frame, but her “body just wouldn’t do it.” Becoming a plus-size model was the “best advice” of her life, she says. Now a “natural size [UK] 14,” Inga also sees the modeling world becoming more accepting of more body shapes and sizes:

“I had no idea it was such a huge market or of the number of opportunities and amazing clients there were for real-sized girls. It’s crazy how much work there is. I’ve worked for Vanity Fair, Bloomingdale’s, Saks and Macy’s. But what I’ve really noticed is that the gap is being blurred between standard size models and plus sizes: before there were only super-skinny and pluses, but now you see all sorts of shapes and sizes. All beauty is now being appreciated.”

Renn’s agent, Gary Dakin, of New York’s Ford Models, echoes the trend:

“I have been in this business for 11 years and I have seen this debate ripple through the fashion world a number of times,” he said. “This time, though, the momentum of the debate feels different.” Style arbiter Stephen Bayley agrees. Bayley’s book, Women as Design, is published this week and looks at how definitions of female beauty have changed over the centuries. “In periods when we are impoverished, as now, there is a vogue for voluptuous women,” he said.”

But Kate Smith, a UK size-16 (US size 14) plus-size model, isn’t so sure.

“The number of plus-size models in the industry has quadrupled in the past few years, but we’re still a tiny percentage of the whole modelling business.

“What does my head in is that I’m a model but I can’t buy designer clothes that fit me. Everything is crawl-walk-run. We’ll get to the point where every shape and size will be represented on the runway, but maybe not in my lifetime.”

From Forever 21 offering a line of plus-size clothes to Glamour featuring nearly-naked fat women in multiple issues, I do see the market slightly cracking while still yet resistant to change. But I also see that narrow opening to be welcoming only of women who fit a certain mold, which is to say, not too fat. Crystal Renn wears a size 12 — a full size below what traditional plus-size clothing starts at — while Lizzie Miller of the recent Glamour fame, was quick to point out that she’s “not obese.” The fact that models like Crystal and Lizzie aren’t clinically fat gives the magazines who feature them in their issues and the designers who send them strutting down the runway the marketing opportunity to pay lip service to body diversity while still yet shielding themselves from claims that they’re promoting an “unhealthy lifestyle.” Caught somewhere in the contradictions are the majority of American women, who have yet to see themselves represented in fashion or print.

What do you think? Will we ever reach the point where “every shape and size will be represented on the runway”?

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1 On September 9th, 2009, Godless Heathen said:

As a size 30, this topic is beginning to bore the hell out of me. I’m not likely to see many models, ever, who look like me. The industry patting itself on the back for accepting a few average sized (white) women with standard hourglass figures, perfect hair and perfect skin is just tiresome.

I’m still being ignored, by a media that pretends I only exist to wreck the planet and by an industry that feels it does me a favor by charging me seven times more for the privilege of wearing my grandmother’s clothes.

So I’m glad that average sized women, or the “acceptably fat” are having their temporary moment in the sun, but I’ll be over here being unacceptably fat trying to make tattered hole-filled clothing last another year. And probably getting meaner and nastier about my disgust over the whole thing.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 11:33 am

2 On September 9th, 2009, Laura P said:

I’m a little bit confused – the article says that Crystal Renn is both a size 12 and 16. Is there a US/UK confusion going on?

Otherwise, I think this is great. Although I’m cautious for the same reasons Godless Heathen (above) is.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 11:42 am

3 On September 9th, 2009, Rachel said:

@Laura: Oops, my bad. My fingers tend to type faster than my brain. Crystal Renn wears a UK size 14/16, which is a size 12 by U.S. conversion.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 11:46 am

4 On September 9th, 2009, Kayla said:

I’ve heard her story before, as well as other similar stories of anorexic model turned plus-size model (Kate Dillon for example). I think it’s great that she’s able to be healthy and continue to do something she loves. But something that I never thought about until today is just how lucky she is that her healthy body still conforms to social standards. If standard-size models have to fit into a sample size of 2, then surely plus-size models must have to fit a sample size as well, a 12 perhaps? If Crytal’s body had stabilized at a size 6, or at a size 22, then she wouldn’t have been able to get much work in the modeling industry, even as a plus-size model. I don’t know much about her path to becoming a plus-size model, but the above quote says that someone advised her to do it. If she heard this while she was still underweight, how could she be sure that her natural body proportions would allow her to do that? Just a thought.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 11:58 am

5 On September 9th, 2009, Rachel said:

If standard-size models have to fit into a sample size of 2, then surely plus-size models must have to fit a sample size as well, a 12 perhaps?

From what I know of the industry, plus-size models start at size 8 and go up to a size 14, however most are in the sizes 8 – 12 range. And yes, I agree. Crystal Renn was very fortunate to have the kind of body that, while heavier, is still considered aspirational.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 12:11 pm

6 On September 9th, 2009, Twistie said:

Baby steps. They aren’t perfect by any means, but I’ll take ‘em and keep agitating for bigger ones.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 12:42 pm

7 On September 9th, 2009, Misty said:

I find it very disappointing that Crystal is a size 12. When it comes to featuring fuller-figured models in the media, this trend of using ever-smaller plus-size models is actually doing harm. A decade ago, plus-size models were 16s and 18s — which meant that occasionally, you would see women that size in the media. But now that size-12 models have driven those sizes out of plus-size modeling, there is actually LESS chance of seeing a size 18 woman in print than 10 years ago? This is progress?

Showcasing Crystal is a “cheat,” because she doesn’t LOOK plus. If at least this attention were being lavished on a plus-size model who LOOKED plus, the effect would be more genuinely revolutionary.

Emme was somewhat dull, but at least she looked plus, and was therefore challenging. Kate Dillon was the best of both worlds when she started out in plus-size modeling – a size 16/18, and a former “supermodel.” But Kate soon was pressured to whittle herself down to a non-threatening size 12/12 — just like Crystal.

Until this familiar model-gains-weight story is applied to someone who goes before the TV cameras actually LOOKING plus, it’s all meaningless.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 1:22 pm

8 On September 9th, 2009, Blimp said:

Will we ever reach the point where “every shape and size will be represented on the runway”?

I hope we’ll have sense enough to close the runway instead. The runway is about as good a career option as the brothel.

But, if we can’t close it down, then I’m all in favor of the most onerous legislation to absolutely ban discrimination against fat people.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 1:39 pm

9 On September 9th, 2009, Miriam Heddy said:

At a size 20/22, I’m with Godless Heathen on this one. There may be some change in that its getting harder for the national media to ignore the “obesity paradox” without looking stupid, and yes, in a recession, there *may* be a trend toward valuing fatter bodies (or perhaps the fashion/beauty industry, faced with shrinking profits, is getting desperate enough to search for new ways to market itself as relevant).

But celebrating a size 12 in fashion as if it’s revolutionary is problematic precisely because it takes the argument on their terms–and those are terms that are based in instilling self-hatred in women in order to commodify our bodies and colonize our minds so we’ll buy products we don’t need in order to purchase back our humanity.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 2:31 pm

10 On September 9th, 2009, Godless Heathen said:

I hope we’ll have sense enough to close the runway instead. The runway is about as good a career option as the brothel.

I think I love you, Blimp!

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 3:00 pm

11 On September 9th, 2009, PlusSizedFeminist said:

Quite frankly, I won’t believe there is change until I see US size 18-30 models on the runway in Paris, Milan, and Barcelona. THAT is when I know change is here. Until then, fashion designers will keep giving plus sized women the hand me downs of fashion.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 4:57 pm

12 On September 9th, 2009, Sarah said:

What Godless Heathen and Blimp said. I’ve given up on the fashion industry – it’s abusive and exploitative (both physically and mentally) to the female models involved, and I can’t support it. The individuals running the show are only interested in promoting their sick fantasies via magazines and ad campaigns. “Plus-size” modeling doesn’t fall into this trap – yet. Ad campaigns are more geared toward celebrating normal folk.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 5:46 pm

13 On September 9th, 2009, lizzie said:

Why would plus size models feature size 20+ models- that is at the other extreme of size 2 women that grace the covers. I think size 12 plus models are a step in the right direction, and a trend toward the representing the majority of women in this country.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 5:48 pm

14 On September 9th, 2009, Shinobu said:

I love the attention Crystal Renn is getting, but I wonder… did they really have to say she got down to 95 pounds? That and the fact the she doesn’t look unhealthy at all in the pictures they show and say or hint that she is that weight in… I’ve really had to fight not to be triggered by that. She’s 5 inches taller than I am… so reading or hearing that kind of flips that “You could get down to that and look fine” switch even though I know that weight is underweight for me.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 7:47 pm

15 On September 9th, 2009, Bronwyn said:

I gotta say I’m with Godless Heathen on this one- because I am omg!deathfat, I feel like I’m constantly being extra marginalized by everything and no amount of size 12 girls on the runway are going to change the fact that I have trouble finding anything even remotely cute.

I guess I could see it being a step in the right direction if I really thought it was any different than what has happened in the past, but I don’t think it is. Plus size models still have to conform to stringent size requirements. Remember that girl on ANTM who was too big to be a regular model, too small for plus? Until people realize that the runway is fiction, nothing really is coming of it.

posted on September 9th, 2009 at 9:27 pm

16 On September 10th, 2009, Alyssa (The 40 year-old) said:

Put me in the column of those who would like to see the runway disappear. Forever.

posted on September 10th, 2009 at 1:25 am

17 On September 10th, 2009, Rachel said:

did they really have to say she got down to 95 pounds?

NEDA has put out a list of tips for journalists writing about eating disorders and not mentioning low weights or numbers at all is right at the top of their list. No one seems to pay attention, though.

posted on September 10th, 2009 at 9:26 am

18 On September 10th, 2009, Blimp said:

Godless Heathen,

I hate the runway and all the obsession and hype about weight loss because I believe in God and strive to imitate Jesus Christ. Visit my blog, doomgloom.wordpress.com. Reflect on it a little and you may discover that the real reason that you gave yourself that name is to avoid being associated with all the evil people who seek to impose their agenda on God and Jesus, by doing what evil people do: lie, be hypocrites, and pretend to be Christian (or whichever religion is most popular among the people in the vicinity).

posted on September 10th, 2009 at 11:01 am

19 On September 10th, 2009, Rachel said:

@Blimp: Godless Heathen’s religious affiliation or lack thereof isn’t at issue here. Please understand that others have different religious beliefs (or none at all) that they find just as valid as you do yours.

posted on September 10th, 2009 at 11:18 am

20 On September 18th, 2009, Barb said:

I do appreciate the fact that the modelling world is coming around to “plus size” models. My slight problem is that as a size 9/10, I wouldn’t consider myself plus size. Before, if you weren’t a size 0 or 2, you were to fat, now they are trying to be the every woman and still, I am being told I am fat. It seems no matter what we do, it isn’t good enough. Hmmmm.

Barb

posted on September 18th, 2009 at 10:42 am

21 On September 22nd, 2009, Snarky's Machine said:

I remember reading her story in Teen Vogue years ago, and it looks as though the whittling has already begin! She seems a bit smaller than what i remember from her “after” shot there. So I think there is something to the conversation happening earlier about the pushing out of 16 and up type models.

Even though I am one of those socially acceptable “fatties” (hourglass, boobs, etc) I still feel very annoyed when I am told that it’s okay to be “fat” as long as you look like _____. I won’t even touch the fact that most of the top plus models are all white and otherwise conventionally attractive.

I guess I refuse to be pandered to and I don’t really think another “average” size beautiful woman should be trotted in front of us and we should be grateful because she’s going to forward our cause.

It all smells too “model minority” to me and I’ll take a hot bag of “no thanks” on this one.

posted on September 22nd, 2009 at 7:44 pm