Who’s to blame for super-skinny models?

The same prominent fashion editor who helped popularize heroin chic is now calling out top fashion designers for perpetuating a dangerous, unhealthy and unachievable trend of size-zero models.
Vogue magazine editor Alexandra Shulman sent letters “not intended for publication” but seen by and reported on by The UK’s Times to Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano and fellow designers at Prada, Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Balen- ciaga and other top fashion houses accusing them of forcing magazines to hire models with “jutting bones and no breasts or hips” by supplying them with “minuscule” garments that have become “substantially smaller” for their photoshoots. The garments are typically sent to magazines six months before they appear in shops and editors have no choice but to hire models that fit the clothes or risk failing to cover the latest collections from leading designers, explained Shulman. “We have now reached the point where many of the sample sizes don’t comfortably fit even the established star models,” she noted in her letter, adding that Vogue is now frequently “retouching” photographs to make models look larger.
Shulman’s “intervention” is being hailed as a “turning point” in the debate about super-skinny models sparked by the deaths of three models from complications related to malnutrition and anorexia (a fourth model, Hila Elmalich, died a year later without much ado). Baroness Kingsmill, who headed the 2007 Model Health Inquiry on behalf of the British Fashion Council, said the stand taken by Shulman was “an encouraging sign” from one of the industry’s “leading lights.” The supermodel Erin O’Connor described the stand by the editor of Britain’s most prominent fashion magazine as “a huge breakthrough.” Some designers, however, have responded to Shulman’s shuffling of the blame, insisting that the rest of the fashion industry is as culpable as the designers. Designer Kinder Aggugini called the size-zero trend a “vicious cycle” perpetuated by the entire fashion industry. “If tomorrow all magazines, model agencies and stylists used bigger girls, then the designers would too,” he said.
Shulman’s call is a long delayed and much needed one, but don’t be swayed by its seemingly altruism. Vogue dedicated its current issue to women and body image insecurities, so the international publicity Shulman’s supposedly “private” letter is now garnering is certainly fiscally strategic for the British magazine. And while relaxed model sizes would be beneficial for the women (and increasingly, men) who work in the business, regulating hyper-thin models is mostly a band-aid, feel-good, superficial approach to addressing more serious public health issues. Federal initiatives that reward companies for promoting thinness wellness, corporate interests that give rise to misleading studies about the health risks of obesity, a lack of affordable and stylish plus-size clothing options, and discrimination in employment and health care amongst others all do more to damage our national health and increase rates of eating disorders than the hordes of size-zero models strutting down the catwalk.
Yes, it would be fantastic if fashion and advertising images included a greater diversity of body sizes and shapes (and ethnicities) beyond a token few, but this won’t necessarily loosen in any significant way the draconian standards of beauty tethering women. Keep in mind that advertising doesn’t merely sell a product, it sells an image, a lifestyle, a vision; it achieves this by lowering our self-esteem and presenting products as solutions to problems in need of fixing. Dove didn’t use its bevy of full-figured “real women” posing playfully in bras and boyshorts in its ads for soaps, bodywashes or shampoos/conditioners. No, it used them in its ads for cellulite cream, because as even it admitted in one advertisement, “Firming the thighs of a size 2 supermodel is no challenge.”
And it’s not only those models in Vogue’s fashion spreads that sport concave tummies and xylophones of vertebrae. Commercial models pictured in the magazine’s glossy advertisement pages are also subjected to stringent and exact physical requirements that don’t fall within a Grand Canyon’s leap of mirroring the average American woman’s proportions. So, why doesn’t Shulman also call out advertisers who often use the same size models as the fashion designers? Because, like most media outlets, Vogue depends on these advertising dollars for the great bulk of its profits and corporate viability. The current recession has diminished those collective dollars — this is, in fact, at the very heart of the current newspocalypse — leading some magazines to become so desperate as to covertly place advertising on their covers in efforts to hook and retain scant advertising budgets. In this sense, Vogue is hardly an innocent bystander in the super-skinny model wars and just as complicit in perpetuating the same trends it now criticizes . In a January 2005 interview with The Scotsman, Shulman said:
I really wish that models were a bit bigger because then I wouldn’t have to deal with this the whole time. There is pressure on them to stay thin, and I’m always talking to the designers about it, asking why they can’t just be a bit closer to a real woman’s physique in terms of their ideal, but they’re not going to do it. Clothes look better to all of our eyes on people who are thinner.
And that, folks, is the bottom line. Skinny models sell clothes. There are many among us, myself included, who would disagree with this and who want to see models who look more like ourselves, but there are many more who do agree with it. A modeling agency spokesperson quoted in a 2004 article published in the Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology said: “Statistics have repeatedly shown that if you stick a beautiful skinny girl on the cover of a magazine you sell more copies… at the end of the day, it is a business and the fact is that these models sell the products.”* A 2006 study by the University of Bath in England backed this up, with findings that (college-age) women are more inclined to buy products advertised by thin models (It should be noted that most of those women interviewed who preferred the thinner models also believed that weight can be controlled by simple diet and exercise). These findings were challenged last year by an Australian researcher, but the maxim that thinner models brings fatter profits continues to reign as Madison Avenue gospel.
Yet while fashion magazines certainly share in the blame, Shulman raises a legitimate point. Even Bust magazine, which is arguably one of the best feminist magazines in circulation, has said before that its near exclusion of plus-size women from its fashion spreads isn’t deliberate, but rather because it is a small-budget publication that has to use models who fit the (free and tiny) clothes sent by designers. And financial motivations aside, I do believe Shulman is sincere. The magazine drew criticism in the 1990s for popularizing the Kate Moss heroin chic look that has been accused of promoting unhealthy body images in girls and women and contributing to rising rates of eating disorders. Shulman glibly dismissed these concerns in a 1998 interview with PBS’s Frontline, claiming: “Not many people have actually said to me that they have looked at my magazine and decided to become anorexic.” But she has since become more sensitive to the issue in recent years, acknowledging in 2005 that anorexia is a “huge problem.” In fact, I gave kudos to Teen Vogue last April for removing what had devolved into a pro-ana/mia messageboard on its forums.
Shulman appears to understand firsthand just how damning body image insecurities can be for the self-esteems of girls and women. In an editorial written last month for The Daily Mail, she describes how her own parents — the late drama critic Milton Shulman and the writer Drusilla Beyfus — were “constantly critical of my size, endlessly trying to coerce me into slimming down” and how arguments with her father would end with him shouting, “you’ll never get a husband if you don’t lose weight.” The rest of the article is somewhat nauseating, assuming that “most women” still want a good man and babies, but some gems can be gleaned from the rubble. Shulman writes:
Look at some of the most celebrated beauties of the day: Jennifer Aniston and Cameron Diaz’s constant quests for a good man demonstrate that perfect bodies have most definitely not given them perfect lives. Madonna, despite her devotion to the treadmill, is in the throes of divorce; Sienna Miller has had more than her share of romantic ups and downs.
The reality is that men are not the body fascists of women’s imagination, and many of them are far less judgmental on the subject of women’s appearance than we are – sadly, that doesn’t lessen the demands we make upon ourselves.
The fact that images of super-skinny models dominate in magazines written by (mostly) women for women indicates that consumers — women — who buy into these images are also duplicitous in perpetuating the trend. Despite all the jocks in high school who would scream out “fat whale” in the hallways and the unsolicited and sexually-degrading catcalls trilled by men of all ages, I’ve always felt the most scathing criticism for my weight to come from other women. This is not to say that women bear the burden for their own oppression, but that we’ve been conditioned to view one another with a wary eye; we’re taught that our “value” as women is relative to our comparisons of beauty in one another. This divide-and-conquer strategy is precisely why I do not use the terms “real women” to describe women who are not rail thin and why I try to bite my tongue and refrain from smacking thin women who complain about how “fat” they are. The nature of the beauty beast is to pit women against one another by rewarding those who best succeed in achieving an aesthetic ideal and castigating those who can’t or won’t. The supreme irony is that while the standards constantly shift and become higher and harsher so that no woman can ever be “thin enough” or “pretty enough” or “good enough” it doesn’t stop so many women from trying nonetheless.
So, who’s to blame for emaciated models? Fashion moguls who see women as clothes hanger commodities? Magazines that place profits before principles? Consumers who tacitly promote such images with their wallets? Short answer: We all are. And until we — and I’m talking mostly women, but also men — reform altogether our definitions of what constitutes “beautiful” and its relative importance in our lives, no amount of fuller-figured models will ever see the eradication of the tyrannical beauty standards that continue to bind women. As Naomi Wolf wrote, “You do not win by struggling to the top of a caste system, you win by refusing to be trapped within one at all.”**
* Halliwell, Emma. “Does Size Matter? The Impact of Model’s Body Size on Women’s Body-Focused Anxiety and Advertising Effectiveness.” Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology 23.1 (2004:pp. 104-120), 105.
** Naomi Wolf, The Beauty Myth, pg. 290.








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