Back to our roots — root vegetables, that is

18th November 2008

Back to our roots — root vegetables, that is

My mother’s family is from Kentucky and like any good Southerner worth her salt in the kitchen, my grandmother imparted in my mom all the wisdom of her culinary ways. In our household, vegetables were always a side dish framing a main course of meat. Sometimes, even the vegetables had meat in them – green beans with ham, anyone? Cornbread baked with lard? Our vegetable repertoire was mostly limited to green beans, corn, potatoes, tomatoes (sliced red and fried green), pickled beets (yuck) and carrots. We had sweet potatoes each year at Thanksgiving, but they were always smothered under a sickly sweet blanket of marshmallows, a combination I found nauseating.

When I became vegetarian more than five years ago, I discovered a world of vegetables new to me, especially root vegetables. Thanks to large-scale food production, root crops can be found in all seasons, but they’re most popular in the fall. This is because earlier generations would deliberately plant them later in the season so that they wouldn’t be ready to harvest until late fall, thus providing them with a major source of food for the winter (Roots keep best when stored in humid environments at near-freezing temperatures, hence the name “root cellars”). The stored roots, a nutritious carbohydrate source rich in fiber and protective antioxidants and folate, would keep families well-nourished through the winter.

Root vegetables may look intimidating, but they’re easily found in most large supermarkets and farmer’s markets. There are many different ways to enjoy roots: You can braise them or roast them – slower cooking releases their sweet and nutty flavors. You can season them with your favorite herbs and spices or a touch of apple cider and brown sugar and a sprinkling of buttery-cinnamon walnuts or braise them in a warming winter stew. After the jump is a guide to common roots, along with a few recipe suggestions. Feel free to contribute your own root recipes in the comments below.

beets Beets: Beets along with prickly pears make up the only edible sources of the valuable family of pigments called betalains. The most common beets are dark red, but other types, such as goden and ‘Chioggia’ – an heirloom variety with concentric rings of red and white flesh – are also available and have a sweet, earthy flavor. Beets should be firm and are sold with or without greens attached. Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Recipes to try: General how to prepare beets; Roast beets; Mandarin Beet Salad; Red Beet Tarte Tatin; Herb Crusted Goat Cheese and Heirloom Beet Salad; 426 beet recipes

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carrots Carrots: Carrots are an excellent source of antioxidant compounds, and the richest vegetable source of the pro-vitamin A carotenes. Carrots come in a rainbow of colors from orange to mauve, yellow, red and even black. Look for firm, unblemished carrots. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 3 weeks.

Recipes to try: Carrot muffins; Carrot Souffle; Baked Wild Rice and Carrots; Vegan carrot recipes

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Celeriac: The knobby celeriac, also known as celery root, has a subtle celery-like flavor. It is a staple in French cooking. Pare off its gnarled exterior to uncover a perfect ivory-fleshed, winter alternative to potatoes and other starches. Half a cup contains no fat and provides an excellent source of dietary fiber. Look for firm bulbs free of soft spots. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 weeks.

Recipes to try: Celeriac Mash; Celeriac Potato Cake; Celeriac Remoulade; 21 celeriac recipes

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Parsnips: Parsnips look like ivory carrots and have a slightly sweet, anise-like flavor with a nutty aftertaste. They can be eaten raw or cooked – I like to microwave mine like a potato. They’re a good source of fiber, folate, antioxidants, calcium, iron and potassium. Look for sturdy, firm parsnips free of soft spots. Remove the fibrous woody core before using. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 3 weeks.

Recipes to try: Parsnip and Apple Soup; Pureed Roasted Parsnips; Parsnip Puff; Other Parsnip Recipes

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Rutabagas: Rutabagas, also referred to as Swedish turnips, has a purple-yellowish skin that’s often thinly coated with wax to prolong storage. They have an earthy, buttery flavor and can be baked, diced, mashed, creamed, glazed, fried, added to casseroles, stews, or soups, or served raw in salads. It is an excellent source of vitamin C, folate and fiber. Look for firm, unblemished bulbs. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 2 weeks or refrigerate or for up to 1 month.

Recipes to try: Rutabaga and Apple Casserole; Mashed Rutabagas; Hearty Rutabaga, Turnip and Carrot Soup; 16 other recipes

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Sweet potatoes: Orange-fleshed varieties of sweet potatoes are most common today, but they also come in white or very light yellow-fleshed types. White-fleshed types are still available, although they may be hard to find outside the Deep South. Yams in the U.S. are actually sweet potatoes with relatively moist texture and orange flesh. These tuberous roots are among the most nutritious foods in the vegetable kingdom, providing excellent sources of vitamins A and C, complex carbohydrates, fiber and beta carotene. They are most nutritious when cooked in their skins. For those who are gluten intolerant, sweet potatoes are a good substitute for grains. They are extremely versatile in recipes, although I like to just microwave them and spray with butter. Look for sweet potatoes that are small to medium in size with few bruises and smooth skin. Store in a cool, dark and dry place (not the refrigerator) for 1 week.

Recipes to try: Rustic Sweet Potato Gnocchi; Quick and Easy Sweet Potato Bake; Marbled Sweet Potato Cheesecake; Curried Sweet Potatoes and Corn; Tuscan Sweet Potato Salad; Baked Sweet Potatoes with Lime; 1,501 other recipes

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turnips Turnips: Turnips get a bad rap as a plebian food, but they’ve been enjoyed by nations hearkening back to Greek epicures. The turnip variety generally available is the white globe-shaped turnip, but they also come in red, purple and pink varieties. Their white flesh has a grassy, mellow flavor. They contain potassium and are a good source of vitamin C. Look for smaller turnips with firm skin. Refrigerate for up to 1 week.

Recipes to try: Sweet and Buttery Turnips; Creamed Turnip Soup; Asian-style Turnips; 95 other recipes

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This entry was posted on Tuesday, November 18th, 2008 at 1:14 pm and is filed under Arts and Music, Personal. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

1 On November 18th, 2008, J

said:

Thanks for putting this together! We’re in the last weeks of our CSA, which means LOTS of root vegetables. I need to find something more creative to do with them, instead of just feeling sad that I can’t swap the giant rutabaga for a few more tomatoes.

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 2:30 pm

2 On November 18th, 2008, The Bald Soprano

Another nice thing to use parsnips and carrots for is to use them with potatoes when making scalloped potatoes. And celery root goes great in soups!

I love the foods of this time of year…. Now if only I could get corned beef brisket for a New England Boiled Dinner (which we always made with cabbage, potatoes, carrots, parsnips and maybe a turnip)

I have to send the link for this article to my mother –my grandfather had a bumper crop of beets this year, and she’ll find the 426 beet recipes *very* helpful!

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 2:35 pm

3 On November 18th, 2008, Living400lbs

Nice to know I’m not the only one who finds the “traditional” sweet potatoes with marshmallows nauseating.

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 2:37 pm

4 On November 18th, 2008, attrice

Me too on the supersweet sweet potatoes with marshmallow topping. Yuck. I didn’t even know I liked sweet potatoes until I was in my early twenties because of all the bad memories associated with eating that dish at thanksgiving.

My favorite thing is to use a mandolin to shred carrots and parsnips. I add the mixture to salads, wraps and I even put in on bagels and hummus. The sweet juicy carrots match so well with the sharper taste of the parsnips.

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 3:37 pm

5 On November 18th, 2008, Heather

One of my favorite meals is Roasted Veggie Fajitas- which is a recipe of Melissa Ray Davis’ available on Hub Pages (which I’d link but my work blocked it). Mix a julienned beet,sweet potato,onion, green pepper and red pepper in a couple tablespoons of canola oil mixed with cumin. Spread single layer on a cookie sheet and roast until caramelized. Spread a thin layer of re-fried beans on a flour tortilla and stuff with roasted veggies, green leaf lettuce, tomatoes, cheese of choice and a dollop of sour cream or greek yogurt if you’d like. This is a staple in our house and everyone I’ve ever made it for loves it- even people who don’t “like” beets. Can easily be made vegan, or extra spicy by roasting hot peppers in the veggie mix or adding some to the beans.
Something I saw in the grocery store today that I want to try was baby carrots in a cider reduction glaze sprinkled with roasted pumpkin seeds…Thanks for all the wonderful recipes to explore!

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 5:01 pm

6 On November 18th, 2008, Genie

This is a terrific round-up — thanks for the link love!

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 5:18 pm

7 On November 18th, 2008, lilacsigil

I’ve found that small parsnips don’t need to have the core removed (because it’s not so woody) and it adds a delicious tangy flavour to the parsnip. Of course, they’re not always available this way!

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 5:42 pm

8 On November 18th, 2008, Valerie

I’m in Kentucky and I’m a native. Like most people in the US most southerners stopped using lard…oh 15-20 years ago for many of the same reasons others in the US stopped using it.

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 5:44 pm

9 On November 18th, 2008, Jackie

I <3 Parsnips!

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 5:47 pm

10 On November 18th, 2008, The Bald Soprano

I’ve never removed a core to a parsnip in my life *boggle*

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 7:36 pm

11 On November 18th, 2008, Rachel

My relative are behind the times then, Valerie. They fix a pot of beans and cornbread each year at our extended family reunion gathering and as a veggie, I can never eat the cornbread because they use lard in it.

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 8:17 pm

12 On November 18th, 2008, Enomis

Oh my god! Another parsnip lover!!! There are 2 vegetables that make me wax poetic: parsnips and peas (I love peas an ungodly amount).

Thanks for all the recipes and tips. I’ll add another one.
I made a shredded parsnip and carrot salad a while back that was really easy and really good. You just add some mayo and a bit of roasted sesame oil, and sesame seeds, if you like. Yum!

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 8:35 pm

13 On November 18th, 2008, Rosa

This time of year, i roast a casserole dish of beets and one of other vegetables (carrots, sweet potatos, carrots, cabbage, parsnips…not a rutabaga fan, though) every Sunday, and we eat them all week. I do not understand your dislike of pickled beets, though - a salad with walnuts, blue cheese, and pickled beets is my absolute favorite fall side dish.

My toddler impresses visitors by asking for beets for dinner. But, really - I do not believe there’s a child alive who wouldn’t like sweet potatos and beets, given the chance. They’re like the candy version of vegetables.

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 8:47 pm

14 On November 18th, 2008, Rachel2

That’s awesome! Thank you, dear!

OH! So I used a RUTABEGA instead of a PARSNIP for my vegan soup. I’ll have to try it again w/ the actual parsnip… LOL. Perhaps it would be better this time.

And… Sweet potatoes w/ marshmallows and brown sugar are disgusting. Just give me some butter (a little bit of butter), and I’m great!

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 10:46 pm

15 On November 18th, 2008, Sara A.

That rutabaga, turnip and carrot soup sounds really good, but I think it might be more filling if it weren’t pureed… I don’t know why but I tend to feel more full when I have to chew my food.

A great traditional Ashkanazi dish that we eat a lot in my family is simmes. All it is is carrots and parsnips par-boiled then roasted with honey and herbs. Sometimes we add other veggies if we have them. Potatoes do not work well in this dish. I had to learn that one myself. Most of the time if my mom makes soup she’ll add the carrots, parsnips, and celery to the broth and then fish them out when their almost done and make simmes. Simmes, chicken soup, and brisket just spell fall and winter to me.

Another classic way we deal with vegetables is to make a ____ kugel. Most people are familiar with the potato kugel. To make a potato kugel you shred a large onion and 3 or 4 potatoes depending on size and combine with 3 or 4 eggs and half a cup of matzah meal and salt and pepper to taste. Bake at 350 for about 20 minutes to a half hour depending on your oven. It’s done when it’s solid. You can make a kugel of most vegetables and there are both sweet and savory recipes. Another favorite is noodle kugel, but we aren’t really known for that in our family. Our recipe died with my grandmother. And the onion is our secret and is why we are always asked to bring it to gatherings. More kugel recipes can be found at chabad.org. I do not necessarily agree with them, but they have some fine recipes available in a variety of languages

posted on November 18th, 2008 at 11:00 pm

16 On November 19th, 2008, meerkat

Whenever I miss the lunch hour at a particular restaurant I get the ground-sesame-and-root-vegetable soup set. It has carrots, lotus root, and burdock. Also fu (wheat gluten). Delicious.

posted on November 19th, 2008 at 8:23 am

17 On November 19th, 2008, fuzzyoctopus

Ditto on the sweet potatoes. My mom and I both did not like the traditional yams-with-marshmallows dish that the families would always serve at holiday dinners. We found what we love most are the light yellow sweet potatoes, (which can be tricky to find depending on your location). take one potato, scrub the outside, bake in the oven for an hour at 385 = dinner. No salt or sugar needed, the really pale yellow sweet potatoes just kind of melt in your mouth.

posted on November 19th, 2008 at 9:08 am

18 On November 19th, 2008, Bree

Another one here who doesn’t like sweet potatoes and marshmallows together.

On my mom’s side of the family, they like to cook, and it seems each one has a special dish that the family can’t get enough of. My oldest aunt, who can no longer live on her own, is famous for her white potato pie and it always seems to be the first dessert to go, because while sweet potato pies are a fall staple, you really don’t hear of white potato pies. I don’t have her exact recipe, but I found a similar one at http://www.allrecipes.com (which is my go-to site when I need something to make) which I will try this Thanksgiving. It’s my grandfather’s favorite pie. The family is also a big fan of meat or pork in veggies (green beans & ham, boiled cabbage & ham, beans & bacon). We could never become vegetarian, LOL!

And after avoiding carrots for years, I’m finally starting to appreciate them. I don’t like them cooked unless it’s in a cake or muffin or bread, but I do like them raw, either in salads or by themselves.

posted on November 19th, 2008 at 12:42 pm

19 On November 19th, 2008, Charlotte

Are regular potatoes a root vegetable? They’re pretty much my absolute favorite vegetable.

posted on November 19th, 2008 at 1:37 pm

20 On November 19th, 2008, Jasie

Thank you for posting this! I’m not a vegetarian, but growing up we rarely ate veggies outside of peas, potatoes, carrots, and green beans… so once I moved out on my own I started branching out and seeing what else there was to choose from! My grandma was an avid gardener and grew her own cherry tomatoes, green beans, snow peas, beets, and rhubarb. So I had that foundation there. My son and I love beets, but literally NO ONE else in the family does. Always makes me sad.

posted on November 19th, 2008 at 2:23 pm

21 On November 19th, 2008, Bree

According to Wiki, potatoes are plants, which is weird, because they look like they should be a root veggie.

posted on November 19th, 2008 at 3:23 pm

22 On November 19th, 2008, Lisa

I just made roasted veggie soup for my family using root vegetables! I cut up carrots, parsnips, squash, a red pepper, a little onion and radishes (not all root veggies, I know), roasted them with olive oil and some spicy seasoning, and then pureed them with some chicken broth. You could use vegetable broth, too, I imagine.

posted on November 19th, 2008 at 9:08 pm

23 On November 20th, 2008, polly

Oh how lovely.

Please do go and see a picture of me (your reader) with a beet.

At the Lovely Lentilla (my sadly neglected website)

Beets are brilliant.

posted on November 20th, 2008 at 7:14 am

24 On November 20th, 2008, Rachel

Lisa, we regularly substitute veggie broth in recipes calling for chicken broth and it tastes fine. I also prepare brown rice in veggie broth instead of water and it tastes so much better. I used to get our store brand veggie broth, but it tasted awful and metallic. I switched to the Swanson veggie broth brand and what a difference. I get the Swanson organic vegetable broth now because their non-organic brand has HFCS in it. Who knew that broth would make such a difference in the way recipes taste, but it does.

posted on November 20th, 2008 at 11:19 am

25 On November 20th, 2008, Lisa

I like the all-natural kinds of broth you get in the boxes - I think that cuts down on the metallic taste. I’ll try veggie broth next time!

posted on November 20th, 2008 at 12:09 pm

26 On November 20th, 2008, GeekGirlsRule

My husband discovered root vegetables a couple years ago when we started shopping at a store that sells mostly organic veggies, and he went wild with love for them. Now most of his stews and soups include turnips and parsnips, and just last night we had mashed rutabagas.

He is gleeful in the fall when the beets and everything start showing up.

posted on November 20th, 2008 at 1:13 pm

27 On November 20th, 2008, J

Sara A, I can’t believe your family’s tzimmes is savory! That’s so interesting; ours has always been sweet. I’ve never made it, but it’s got carrots, parsnips, AND raisins. Then again, pretty much every single person in my family has a huge sweet tooth. We also love noodle kugel, which is a delicious, ridiculous dish (the best comparison I can think of is a sweet lasagna) but has nothing to do with vegetables.

posted on November 20th, 2008 at 2:21 pm

28 On November 20th, 2008, Rachel