Top Chef: Eat some humble pie

15th May 2008

Top Chef: Eat some humble pie

posted in Fat Bias, Health/Nutrition, Pop Culture |

I’m a culinary dullard. Seriously, I can’t even boil an egg properly. But my husband and I are total Top Chef addicts. Last night’s episode combined challenge with altruism: Serve up a healthy, gourmet boxed lunch to Chicago’s finest police recruits.

I come from a family steeped in emergency services culture: My mother worked as an EMT and later, a 911 dispatcher. When I was a teenager, I rode with my local police department as part of a police Explorer program and continued to ride throughout my college years (my first major was criminal justice). Because of the nature of the job — no lunch breaks, high stress, sporadic work hours — most cops I knew ate fast food while on the job.

So, the challenge to serve cops up a healthy meal is certainly admirable. But what talk on healthy eating wouldn’t be complete without also a healthy dose of fear-mongering? “As you know, the nation is facing an epidemic of obesity and diabetes…,” began host Padma. The camera then panned over a table choking under an array of clumsily-constructed burgers and ketchup-drenched French fries, which Padma explained to be the fare normally consumed by the recruits.

The insinuation was not lost on viewers: Fast food contributes to obesity and diabetes.

There are studies that purport fast food to be a contributing factor in obesity and diabetes, while other studies find no such evidence to support the claims - this is yet another example of that niggling thing they call the “obesity paradox.” But one thing is clear here and that is the inherent class assumptions and contradictions: A 500-calorie fast food burger contributes to obesity and diabetes, and yet a 500-calorie mushroom risotto stewing in a sauce of fatty cream and whole butter does not?

Barry Glassner brings up the issue of class in his The Gospel of Food. He quotes a “prominent researcher” at the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services who asked to remain anonymous:

“There’s a lot of subtle and not so subtle bias. From going to all these talks about the obesity epidemic, you would think that McDonald’s and other places where the ‘wrong’ sort of lower-class people eat are calorie-dripping hellholes, and expensive classy restaurants serve only fat-free vegetables and no desserts.”

“No one ever uses Starbucks as an example, but a Frappucino is as oversized and calorie-laden as anything McDonalds can dream up. But the person giving the talk probably goes to Starbucks him- or herself and wouldn’t be caught dead at McDonald’s.”

But here’s the real kicker: The dozens of police recruits who purportedly eat all that fast food? Are thin. And diabetic chef Sam Talbot, himself a former Top Chef contender (and show heartthrob), who served as guest judge of the challenge? Also thin.

Did anyone else catch the show? What are your thoughts?

Click to Bookmark

This entry was posted on Thursday, May 15th, 2008 at 11:35 am and is filed under Fat Bias, Health/Nutrition, Pop Culture. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

1 On May 15th, 2008, Toni

said:

I almost turned the show off (would have been the first episode ever I didn’t watch), but I stuck it out. I was glad to see that as the show progressed that they talked a lot about the fact that even though the food was “healthy” it needed to be filling and taste great. The guy who went for a strict nutritionists view of healthy food got a lot of crap for it. So I felt better about the episode at the end.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 1:14 pm

2 On May 15th, 2008, Sherie Sanders

I think that the Chicago law enforcement is in for all kinds of badgering because of the new top cop Jody Weiss. He is fitness nut who is all style over substance. We are in a literal crisis situation over the number of children dying, but his muscleness feels getting cops to lose weight should be a bigger priority. That way he can show visible results that he has actually done something besides work on his abs, even if the real issues remain untouched.

What Chicago cops need is some mental health counseling. I have heard too many horror stories of police brutality. That is what they need to change first and foremost. Better community relations would bring more trust and cooperation to fight the real issues. But a person like Weiss whose body is his main asset can’t understand the complexity of the issues. He can’t get past waistlines. Personally, I resent that I must pay his salary as a Chicago taxpayer!

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 2:06 pm

3 On May 15th, 2008, Sabina

I have to take issue with your allegation that, “A 500-calorie fast food burger contributes to obesity and diabetes, and yet a 500-calorie mushroom risotto stewing in a sauce of fatty cream and whole butter does not?” is an incorrect statement. While the show did allude to the idea that fatty foods lead to obesity (wrong!), it is true that the TYPES of fats used in fast food (industrial, hydrogenated oils, predominantly) are likely to lead to heart disease, while natural fats (such as butter and olive oil) which, unfortunately, are more expensive and less often consumed by lower-income people, do NOT. The insinuation is classist for sure, but it’s lack of access to healthy fats, not some sort of lack of willpower against fatty foods, that leads to heart disease in the low-income population.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 2:21 pm

4 On May 15th, 2008, maura

I watched it… and almost through my shoe at the tv when Padma said that… but reality tv is my vice (sadly enough), so I watched it anyways. I did find it kind of funny that the whole show was composed of thin people when earlier episodes they had some more substantial types… guess this was to emphasize the “fat = bad” ideology.

(I’ll probably still watch it, though.)

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 2:29 pm

5 On May 15th, 2008, spacedcowgirl

A 500-calorie fast food burger contributes to obesity and diabetes, and yet a 500-calorie mushroom risotto stewing in a sauce of fatty cream and whole butter does not?

No kidding. Jeez.

I will say I have seen plenty of Frappuccino-bashing around the ‘net also (basically anything with over 300 calories appears to be fair game for one of those dramatic reveals where someone tells you you’re actually getting 3000% of your daily saturated fat, half your recommended daily calories, etc. etc. just in a snack!! OMG!! Never mind that most people are already well aware that a Venti Frappuccino is quite filling, even if they don’t know the exact calorie count, so these stories are never all that shocking to me), but you’re right, “traditional” fast food like McD’s seems to incur the most snobby, fat-bashing wrath.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 2:34 pm

6 On May 15th, 2008, Twistie

Sigh. I didn’t catch the episode, but it annoys me how people have come to equate low-calorie with healthy and high-calorie with laziness, flatulence, and a mild immorality as well as obesity and ill-health, no matter whether there’s any evidence to back up the theory or not.

You know, I had never really considered the unwillingness to use Starbucks as an example of unhealthy eating before, but that’s an excellent point. Frappacinos and scones composed mostly of butter and sugar are not going to be precisely on the ‘light ‘n’ fit’ menu, are they?

Funnily enough, I won’t eat at either place. I think the quality of the food and drink is low and I hate supporting such huge corporations when I can find higher quality food and drink at locally-owned or small chain places. It may be a bit more expensive, but when I want a burger, I head for the place run by the guy Mr. Twistie has known since high school where I can get this amazing bleu cheese burger on sourdough. And if I want to lighten the meal, I have the option to have a green salad or cole slaw instead of the fabulous handcut French fries.

But yes, it’s pretty bizarre to assume that Mickey D’s is fattening and Starbucks isn’t.

Great. Now I want one of those bleu cheese burgers and I won’t get my paycheck until next week. Sigh.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 2:41 pm

7 On May 15th, 2008, Rachel

Sabina: The show actually never addressed heart disease; the challenge was geared towards diabetes and emphasized low-carb and low-sugar, not fat. The fast food burger is actually lower in sugars and carbs than the mushroom risotto (which was a past recipe featured on the show to explain this particular example).

I’m not boycotting Top Chef and we’ll still continue watching it. But I do find it ironic how the show demonizes fast food as unhealthy, while nearly every show episode calls for dishes that are much higher in fat and calories and carbs and fat than anything McDonalds serves up.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 3:17 pm

8 On May 15th, 2008, Godless Heathen

I know that where I used to live you couldn’t go into a Whataburger without there being at least 3 police cruisers parked in the lot. However, there’s a really good reason for that, as Whataburger is open 24/7, and if you work the night shift there really isn’t anyplace else to get a meal. Well, Waffle Hell, but that requires going in and sitting down. I don’t know all that much about routine police work, but I imagine that it’s a high energy job that pretty much demands calories and fat. At least, that’s what it looked like in my old neighborhood, with drug busts almost nightly.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 3:24 pm

9 On May 15th, 2008, CJ_in_VA

I watched it. As soon as the words “obesity” and “epidemic” left Padma’s mouth, I got pissed. A show that weekly puts together dishes that are not in any fashion low calorie/low fat/low carb standing in judgement of the food that people eat on the run is pretty ironic if you ask me. And next week they’ll go back to cooking their 1000 calorie a plate meals but they’ve made their stand against TeH FATZ (booga booga) so all is right with the world.

I love the show but the whole approach made me mad.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 3:37 pm

10 On May 15th, 2008, Cindy

I love Barry Glassner’s book. I didn’t catch Top Chef (dear GOD someone do an intervention so I can break the HGTV habit!)I did, however, want to kill about five people on Work Out. The way the TRAINERS treat the fattest woman in the Sky Lab boot camp is very telling.

Anymore, I tune out when people start prescribing diet as a way to achieve optimal health.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 3:50 pm

11 On May 15th, 2008, Meowser

I don’t watch this show, but I have to agree, they could have made it about giving cops higher-quality and more balanced things to eat than they can typically grab on the overnight shift without bringing the ZOMG DIABEEEESITY thing into it. You can’t eat your way into a genetic tendency to insulin resistance, folks.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 6:39 pm

12 On May 15th, 2008, ShoeLaLa

I disagree about Starbucks…I see their drinks held up as examples of massive calorie & fat doses all the time (maybe it’s the Canadian media?) Many things showing either the super calorific ones compared with “lighter” drinks from there, or articles like a survey of fast foods that pack a calorie wallop. I particularly remember reading the damage on a venti chocolate chip something or other with whipped cream. Yikes.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 7:45 pm

13 On May 15th, 2008, littlem

They do a variant on one of these every season.

Don’t you remember the “monkfish dogs” at the little kids’ diabetic camp?

And the “low fat” entrees for the seniors at the Kiwanis club?

Every time they do one of these things I just roll my eyes and remember that it’s a Bravo show produced by a bunch of folks who slaver after mainstream aesthetics — if you feel me — and wouldn’t know what a balanced nutritional meal was if it came up and smacked them in the face. It’s not like they have a nutritionist on staff. And they got rid of Andrea Beaman (although I understand she still cooks occasionally for Lee Anne). Remember?

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 8:02 pm

14 On May 15th, 2008, April D

We just watched it tonight (HOW did I ever get addicted to this show???) on tape and I audibly growled when Padme’s wonder-line came out. *blush* I flipped off the TV….damn this show for raising my hackles! What I DID like was that the judges at the end really weighed “was it FILLING” and satisfying and tasty, more than “did it just have the fewest calories”. It is a step in the correct direction I think but yeah; that phrase at the start of the episode definitely didn’t have to be there.

posted on May 15th, 2008 at 10:17 pm

15 On May 16th, 2008, raven

first, thanks a lot twistie. now i want a bleu cheeseburger and steak fries at 4am texas time. SO not gonna happen! also, i totally agree w/cindy that i got a bit peeved at workout this week. (what can i say? bravo doesn’t have infomercials on at 2am like most other channels.) and i was downright pissed at top chef. can’t we get over the ‘obesity epidemic’ already? and if you want to come bring me something both ‘healthy’ and tasty at 4am, great. b/c i don’t cook. at all. and this is my dinner time. until then, you will find me at ihop trying to convince them to put some bleu cheese on a burger.

posted on May 16th, 2008 at 5:13 am

16 On May 16th, 2008, Sarah

What happened on Workout? I missed it.

posted on May 16th, 2008 at 9:38 am

17 On May 16th, 2008, Rachel

ShoeLala: Here in the Midwest, people still have this fascination with Starbucks as a place where upscale people go. I rarely go to Starbucks and when I do, I get steamed soy milk. I’m a big indie coffee house fan and supporter and I’d much rather support local business owners than the global tyrant of the Northwest.

But I do think Starbucks is feeling the heat from some of its higher-cal offerings. Last year they unrolled the new “skinny” drinks as a lower-cal way to enjoy your Starbucks favorites.

posted on May 16th, 2008 at 11:24 am

18 On May 16th, 2008, Jackie

OMG! You know what this really is about, I just heard it on the news. The police force is trying to get cops to loose weight cause, now get this, they might wave the gun around too much when they run. I’m serious, they actually said that. That’s what the whole Top Chef thing is about.

posted on May 16th, 2008 at 1:39 pm

19 On May 16th, 2008, raven

sarah… well what i got mad about was that jackie was giving one of the ladies a really hard time b/c she was having difficulty w/the beach workout. and she pulled her aside and said something to the effect that it was a lot harder to be obese your whole life than to do one workout. well hmmmmmmmm… could that be b/c of the media’s/drug companies’/diet industry’s love affair w/promoting the ‘obesity epidemic’??? while i don’t disagree that it’s difficult to live as fat person in today’s world. i don’t think it’s the fault of the fat.

posted on May 16th, 2008 at 1:43 pm

20 On May 16th, 2008, CarrieP

The thing that killed me about Top Chef was that Padma said it was the “spread” of obesity and diabetes that was such a problem in America. Last I checked, neither obesity nor diabetes was actually contagious.

posted on May 16th, 2008 at 7:00 pm

21 On May 20th, 2008, You’re so vain » The-F-Word.org said:

[...] week I suggested the reality show Top Chef ought to eat some humble pie. Humility is an admirable trait that would [...]

posted on May 20th, 2008 at 11:26 am

22 On June 21st, 2008, Jess

They may not advertise it, or discuss it, on the show, but hopefully everyone realizes anyway how rich and decadent most of the meals created on Top Chef are. Delicious *often* means lots of fat, or sugar, or salt, one way or another. This is not inherently good or bad, but they should not gloss over it and then have an episode devoted to “healthy” eating for specific people. Wasn’t one of the contestants a chef specializing in nutrition, and they let her go because they felt her dishes lacked appeal, flavor, and the sort of taste required for haute cuisine? I *do* love how Padme admits that she gains weight as a judge, and that it is part of the job, a recent interview.

posted on June 21st, 2008 at 10:16 am